Images via Yeezy

After yesterday’s flurry of social media depicting dark images of projected-screen models who looked like they just stepped out of a Dis Magazine concept shoot, more straightforward and detailed images of Yeezy Season 5 have arrived. What they show are a distinct bent towards Americana—that California desert air can be intoxicating—rendered in interesting proportions that may or may not look great on everyone, but certainly reflect a point of view.

As I wrote yesterday, this collection is far moodier than his former, just based on the color palette, which unfurls in increments from deep ocean blue to squid ink to camo, maroon, tan and black. Its “Mulholland”/ “Lost Hills” insignia perhaps points to a darker side of the Los Angeles lifestyle, though I might just be word-associating with David Lynch.

At any rate, we are truly back in the baggy era, a welcome return to comfort, and luxe comfort is what Kanye is offering here: shit you already wear, but fancier. Also, those thigh high boots are similar to those in Yeezy Season 4 that had models practically breaking their ankles, but the heel looks lower and therefore more wearable. Also, sweatpants.

This is off-duty model style, but with a dash of Wu-Tang.

Velour! Is! Back!

I’m actually not mad at any of this; the maroon tracksuit is the best, though the (neoprene?) bodysuit is also interesting—if you dare.

Kanye and fur have a rocky history—and though model Halima Aden is very much everything in that look, faux fur comes in increasingly high quality, and could have easily been used. Ask Sia.

Basics for the city masses. Kanye knows exactly what his streetwear cult wants (dad sneakers, apparently!) and in his efforts to break into the fashion industry, hopefully he’s realized that his focus on insiders has been misguided. It’s the teens who worship him who dictate street style; fashionistas are just here to follow.