For me, there has always been something uniquely calming about a beautiful, expertly constructed piece of clothing. Most of the garments I put on my own body are admittedly boring, but my childlike enthusiasm for pretty things has never quite waned; when you look at the very best clothes, for a moment, everything else falls away. It wasnât until I started flipping through Dries Van Notenâs Spring 2018 collection that I realized how much I needed it.
âWe always say fashion can be a reflection of whatâs happening in the world,â Van Noten said during a preview of the collection. âBut fashion can be also be escapism. For me, it was really important to have that.â
The collection has the requisite mishmash of prints and perfect two-piece looks and brocade elements, but, as always, itâs a little bit new this time. Using sheer overlays, scarves and light, jangly diamond-esque embellishments and broaches, the mood is lighter, diaphanous. A delicate, nearly invisible metallic belt lightly hugs a blush silk patterned dress; a heavily-layered look, using sheer silk and shimmering brights, somehow presents as buoyant.
âWe always say that fashion is a reflection of our times,â Van Noten told Vogue. âWell, maybe thatâs enough of that! Letâs do something optimistic, enjoy thingsâand really go for it!â
Normally Iâd raise an eyebrow at a quote like that, because I generally believe fashion designers should make an effort to be much more political; too many of them have contented themselves with meaningless gestures. But here, in the context of this collection, it feels appropriate: a reminder, in the midst of a parade of suffering and malicious incompetence, that we can generate beauty and wonder with equal skill.
Watch the full show below:
