The thesis of Versace‚Äôs Spring 2016 line, shown in Milan this week, was explicit before the lights even turned on. ‚ÄúThis song is dedicated to women everywhere, regardless of color, religion, sexuality or what sex they were born with,‚ÄĚ intoned a voice over the soundsystem. ‚ÄúMake it happen.‚ÄĚ

On the soundtrack was ‚ÄúTransition,‚ÄĚ a multilingual cover of the original Underground Resistance techno track made by six woman electronic producers‚ÄĒViolet, A.M.O.R., my fave Nightwave, LCD Soundsystem‚Äôs Nancy Whang, Mamacita, and Coco Solid‚ÄĒand Donatella Versace told Vogue that after she heard it, she was inspired to create this collection:

‚ÄúIt was made for International Women‚Äôs Day,‚ÄĚ said Donatella Versace, backstage. ‚ÄúAnd when I heard it, I was so sure of myself. I wanted to challenge myself, to do something strong.‚ÄĚ

She backed it up by showing an battalion of power suits: oversized army green jackets offset an acid green splash of leopard, which served as a version of camouflage. The cuts were forgiving but also imbued its wearers with a sense of confidence, concurrent with the message in the song: ‚ÄúThere will be people who will say, ‚ÄėYou can‚Äôt,‚Äô but you will. There will be people who will say ‚ÄėYou don‚Äôt mix this with that,‚Äô and you will say watch me,‚ÄĚ it goes, an ode to strength and fearlessness. The models stomped on down the runway, serious and defiant.

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