Belgian visionary Dries van Noten always has a strong point of view, one accompanied by perfect tailoring and architectural takes on power dressing. Today at Paris Fashion Week, his collection invoked old money and yachting clubs viewed through a murderous lens—very Pride and Prejudice and Zombies, if its sequel were The Great, Immortal, Bloodsucking Gatsby.
Cheetah print threaded through the show—especially good in a pair of astonishingly luxurious, kinetic wide-legged trousers—but its severe, nigh-zoot suits were anchored by a crisp, Ivy League-invoking insignia and slicked-back combovers, as though he’d figured out a way to challenge those old, gross, men-only billiards rooms and cigar clubs: ladies sneak in, then drink the boys’s blood.
It’s an aspirational statement about how the women will rise up and exact vengeance on exclusionary men and then steal their country club suits and pair them with contrasting patterns. Suck it, institution.
Below is video from the show. Shot from the floor, it’s not a good representation of the clothes, but the soundtrack is interesting: first a heartbeat (the slow drain of a vampire feeding, no doubt), then a sharply modern, lightly terrifying string composition comprised of dramatic cello and violin stabs.
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Images via AP