Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest couture collection is just the kind of vision you can sink your heart into: extremely strong women as a logical jumping-off point, a mise en scène to propel the creative story, and a perfect melange of cultural touchstones and eras, including 1930s cigarette girls, 1940s movie stars, 1970s clubgoers and, to close the circle, 1980s power-dressers.
Oh, and day pajamas, a trend I hope will never dissipate and, ideally, will usurp athleisure as the coziest way to go to the office like you actually tried to make something of yourself this morning. God, Gaultier is great! The show took place in Paris’s La Palace theater, a prolific nightclub in the late 1970s whose waiters wore Thierry Mugler and where Prince and Grace Jones once performed; the soundtrack was the classic disco that played there during the era. Silver-screen glam as interpreted in 2016 through the lens of that wild, artistic, gluttonous era makes perfect sense for a designer with the abandon of Gaultier, and furthermore, the garments seem eminently kind to the women wearing them; a bronzed trench had both mettle and give, and every Hepburn-inspired suit was impossibly chic in how relaxed it was.
Given the occasion, Grace Jones weighed heavy on the show, and there was copious room for drama and flair, silk sheaths and cigarette trousers and a long, shoulder-padded tuxedo jacket in fur worn as a minidress, a look the world would be better for if some daring and blessed soul—Alicia Vikander?—wore it on the red carpet to the Oscars. Please, someone do this and make 2016 great again.
Losing a heel on the dancefloor is about the most glamorous accident you can have in a night club. Whoops, having too much fun!
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Images via AP