Margiela creative director John Galliano threw down in his typically “wacky” fashion on the Paris runway Wednesday morning, presenting a vision for Fall that is something like: arty types stationed at a dusty military base who pass the time by knitting and starting a DIY discothéque.

The severe, geometrical haircuts—which brought to mind fashion goddess Michelle Harper—capped a collection that reveled in studied excess and celebrated both arts (those Matisse-inspired earrings and lapels) and crafts (your grandma’s crocheted hand muff). Also, he turned cartoon mice into a type of colorful camouflage and gave an Amelia Earhart aviator jacket a chic cape, for your capers.

Very glad we’re keeping with the leotard as pants look going!

The confluence of fabrics—leather, satin, stiff muslin, shimmery luscious silks that, strangely, resembled reconstituted or recycled plastic—were typical of Galliano’s “mad hatter” estílo, in perfectly unlikely hues. Those rubber-soled military boots in acid green and hunter orange are a perfect accessory.


Klaus Nomi finally gets his due.


Contact the author at

Images via AP