London Fashion Week has emerged, like a beautiful butterfly, out of the sea of (sorry!) drab bullshit that NYFW hath wrought. Two collections, by House of Holland and Mary Katrantzou, respectively, invited a sense of lighthearted theatricality that was just... god, such a relief!
Mary Katrantzou, who since her 2008 debut can generally be counted upon to deliver bright, modern and immensely satisfying collections, went for a winkingly retro country western vibe this time. Reviews were mixed—WWD pointed out in a brief, terse review that many of the looks bore “strong resemblances” to past Miu Miu collections, while Vogue gushed over its wearability—but in my inexpert opinion, this shit was Good and Fun.
Models walked down the aluminum foil runway to some twangy Dolly Parton, rocking headscarfs and waist-defining silhouettes and the elaborate patterns Katrantzou is known for. The shoes throw everything just a little bit off-kilter, in a good way; the pants on the far right, above, are kind of fantastic.
This purple drop-waist in the middle is lovely, and the shiny, kaleidoscopic coat on the far right is a mesmerizing reminder that our appreciation for color and sheen doesn’t have to die with the leaves.
House of Holland’s Fall 2016 collection was more in-your-face (and, I guess in a more literal sense, in Debbie Harry’s face, as well as Liza Minelli’s and Cher’s; some garments featured blown-up collages of the trio) and a little messier, clothes for the woman who pretends not to give a shit about clothes.
Designer Henry Holland told WWD that he modeled this collection after the ’20s and the ’70s, “two of the greatest party decades.”
With an assist from some expert layering, the effect is drunken glamour; many of the clothes seem ready for someone to pass out while wearing them. The bottom right look, especially, is giving us some tricked-out pajama realness.
So fun, I almost forgot it’s Monday! Almost.
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Images via Getty.